Are you afraid to sew a centered zipper?
Well, there’s no need to fear sewing a centered (slot) zipper. It’s as easy as this: Sew the center back (CB) seam and press it open. Topstitch down the right side (RS) of the zipper, pivot, sew across the CB seam to the other side, pivot, and sew up to the top edge of the garment. Your zipper is in!
Truth is, the first centered zipper I attempted to sew ended in a lake of tears, a ruined project, and almost made me give up on sewing. Yes, it was that traumatizing!
But now I know, it wasn’t me! It was the crappy instructions included with the zipper and the lack of any skill building practice! Silly, silly me.
Here’s the thing…
I refuse to let that happen to you!
So let’s start with the anatomy of a zipper, a few bonus tips, and then learn how to sew in a centered zipper step-by-step with images…
NOTE: If you’re ready to begin this journey and would like to buy my recommended tools and supplies, please click HERE!
All zippers share a similar anatomy. In the image below, we have a close-end zipper…
- Stops (1 and 2): There are two stops (1) at the top and one stop (2) at the bottom. These prevent the slider from coming off the zipper chain.
- Teeth or elements (3): When the zipper is unzipped, they reveal teeth on each side of the zipper tape. These teeth can be metal or nylon.
- Chain (4): When the right and left zipper teeth are entwined, they become the chain.
- Tape: this is the length of woven fabric on either side of the zipper teeth or chain. It can vary in weights and fabric type, but it is usually made from polyester.
- Slider + Pull tab (5): This is what you pull on to zip and unzip the zipper. The pull tab is attached to the slider — the slider moves up and down the chain, zipping and unzipping.
Zipper length: This is measured from the two top stops (1) to the bottom stop (2). It is NOT from the one end of the zipper tape to the next!
Now, that you can identify the parts of a zipper, let’s learn about…
You can sew in a centered (slot) zipper using a standard or narrow (ski style) zipper foot.
The standard zipper foot (left) is usually included with the accessories of modern sewing machines. But the narrow zipper foot (right) typically has to be purchased separately.
Inserting any kind of zipper is easier with the narrow style zipper foot, because it allows you to stitch close to the zipper teeth without any fuss! It is a worthwhile purchase!
RELATED: Click HERE if you want to learn more about zipper feet and the other basic presser feet!
And as promised, here are a some…
Zipper | Bonus Tips
- A centered (slot) zipper application can be used in skirts, tops, and dresses.
For ease of application, buy a zipper that is at least two (2) inches longer than you need. This will allow you to keep that bulky slider + pull tab out of the way, so you can sew in your zipper smoothly and with the absolute minimum of frustration. With nylon teeth you should have no worries cutting off the excess AFTER you’ve finished the waistline or neckline edge!
- Plus, using a too long zipper and cutting off the excess AFTER finishing the waistline and neckline edge eliminates the need for a hook & eye! I sort of hate hook & eyes, so for me, this is a big win!
To strengthen the zipper opening, ALWAYS interface the zipper opening with a strip of interfacing or silk organza.
- Skirt zippers are usually from 7 to 9 inches long. And dress zippers can be 14 to 22 inches long.
So now that you know the anatomy of a zipper and are privy to these bonus tips, it’s time to learn…
How to Sew in a Centered (Slot) Zipper
Listen, there are probably a zillion methods to installing a centered zipper. I’ve tried many of them — and this is my fave. Let me count the reasons why I love this method:
- No excessive pinning
- No gluing
- No sticky tape
- No basting to unpick
Now, before we begin, inhale and exhale slowly, and then vow to approach this skill with confidence and just a tiny bit of patience…
Step 1. Mark the bottom of the zipper.
I like to position the bottom zipper stop slightly above this mark like this…
Step 2. Interface the SAs of the zipper opening.
First, cut two strips of fusible tricot interfacing that is 1 inch wide and 1 inch longer than the zipper opening. You want the interfacing to overlap the zipper’s seam line.
Interfacing the zipper opening improves stability and prevents distortion and rippling over time!
Now, fuse one strip to the zipper opening at the garment FRONT and the garment BACK.
(In the image above, I am using a solid-coloured fabric so you can clearly see how to interface a zipper opening.)
As an extra assist, once the interfacing is fused to the zipper opening, you can go ahead and transfer the construction marking to the interfacing where the zipper’s bottom stop is to be positioned.
Sew easy tip: For silks, use silk organza — NOT fusibles!
Step 3. Finish the SAs of the CB seam (not shown).
But for accuracy and ease of insertion, do NOT trim off any of the SAs!
Sew easy tip: If I choose to pink the raw edges, I mark the 5/8 inch SA at the zipper opening BEFORE I pink the edges. This way I make sure I sew the CB seam using the correct SA.
Okay, it’s time to…
Step 4. Partially sew the CB seam.
Using a regular stitch length, with the right sides together (RST), sew the CB seam, from the hem up to the point where the bottom zipper stop is to take up resident.
Make sure to backstitch at the top of the CB seam — because that area will be under a lot of stress during the life of the garment!
In the image above, the blue arrows are pointing to where I backstitched!
Step 5. Press the SAs open.
Press the SAs open all the way up to the top edge, which would be a neckline or waistline edge.
Step 6. Mark a topstitching guideline.
Choose a marking tool that can easily be removed without leaving a trace!
Then, from the RS of the garment, mark a topstitching guideline on either side that is ¼ inch from the CB seam and ¼ inch below the bottom zipper stop.
Okay, get ready to be impressed by how easy a centered zipper is to sew into a seam…
Step 7. Align the fold with the zipper teeth.
Alright. Install your zipper foot on your sewing machine with the needle positioned on the LEFT. Also, lower your needle MANUALLY to make sure it is far enough left to clear the zipper foot!
Now, position the bottom zipper stop slightly above the bottom of the zipper opening of the garment.
You want the zipper tape, slider + pull tab to extend 1 to 2 inches above the top edge like this…
Next, unzip the zipper and align the right zipper teeth with the right fold of the CB seam. Anchor the zipper in place with a single straight pin at the top edge like this…
If the fold of the seam is positioned properly over the zipper, you will NOT be able to see the zipper teeth from the RS!
Guess what?! It is time to…
Step 8. Topstitch the zipper in place.
Position the RS of the zipper under the presser foot in line with the topstitching guideline you made in step 6 like this…
Now, press the needle down button to lower the sewing machine needle into the garment and the zipper, and then lower the zipper presser foot. You’re now ready to sew down from the top of the zipper to the bottom of the zipper.
Using a regular stitch length for your fashion fabric, backstitch at the start, and then stitch forward. When you are about 1 inch from the bottom, STOP with the needle down and zip up the zipper to the top edge.
Alright. Continue to sew down to the point ¼ inch beyond the bottom corner and pivot. Then, sew across the CB seam to the other side and pivot again at the other corner. In the image below, the blue arrows point to the two pivot points of the zipper insertion process…
Finally, sew up to the top edge of the zipper opening on the left side (LS) of the CB seam.
Take your garment to your ironing board and give that seam a quick press. And voilà!
Your zipper is in!
Super Bonus Tip
Once your zipper is sewn into the CB seam, you can finish your neckline or waistline edge…
Keep this in mind: Once the zipper is installed, do NOT cut off the zipper excess at the top BEFORE finishing your neckline or waistline edge!
Because if you do, the zipper’s slider + pull tab might come off the zipper teeth/chain. Then, you will need a new zipper, have to unpick the useless zipper, and repeat the zipper insertion process again. And you’ll be pissed!
And one last thing…
How to Shorten a Too Long Zipper
If your zipper is too long, you can shorten it. And if you need a zipper in a non standard length, you can create a custom length. It’s sew easy!
Take your extra long zipper, whipstitch a new bottom stop at the desired length, and then cut off the excess with pinking shears to help stop fraying. Here’s an image from a Coats & Clark zipper packet on how to do just that…
Sew easy tip: You can use an extra thick thread like topstitching thread instead of a double strand to whipstitch!
That is how easy it is to install a centered (slot) zipper: No excessive pins, no glue, no sticky tape, no basting stitches to unpick, no fuss!
And you know what…
Lapped, invisible, and exposed zippers are easy too!
But as a beginner the centered (slot) zipper is the easiest to begin with, especially with the no fuss technique illustrated here!
Anyhoo, remember this…
Life is the ultimate red carpet event! Dress for it!
RELATED: Click HERE to learn other basic garment construction sewing skills!
RELATED: Click HERE to learn how to sew in super strong lapped zipper!
RELATED: Click HERE to begin the 5-Part How to Sew a Basic Dress – Vogue 9237 | A MEGA-Series!